Although the entirety of this route is located in Swiss territory, VisitOssola recommends it as one of the Ossola ski mountaineering routes since the departure point is in Macugnaga, in Anzasca Valley.
It is also a particularly unusual excursion, since the outward journey is a descent and the return journey is an ascent, so it has unique charm compared to the classic routes, offering something unexpected, which is no bad thing in ski mountaineering.
Another advantage of this excursion is the magnificent view that you can enjoy of the Strahlhorn and Monte Rosa.
Description
ASCENT:
After arriving at the upper station of the Macugnaga-Monte Moro cableway, ascend the well-trodden track to the left of the ski lift up to the saddle beside the Passo del Monte Moro. Remove your skins and start to descend on the Swiss side, first towards the north, then on the Tälliboden glacier, turning north-west to the vast Tälli plateau, at around 2490 m.
Reattach the skins, climb to an altitude of 2658 m and, entering the Stafelbach valley, continue to ascend, climbing back up the slopes to the east. At an altitude of 2822 m, when you reach a small lake, start heading north and ascend a steep section until you reach a large basin.
Climb the last stretch just below the summit, until you reach the peak.
DESCENT:
- Same route as the ascent.
- Those who do not wish to put their skins back on to climb back up to Passo del Monte Moro can descend diagonally south-east to a small neck below Punta Mondelli. Continue along a steep channel and then head diagonally again towards Passo del Monte Moro.
The last part is slightly uphill.
Then descend to Macugnaga by cableway or along the downhill slopes.
Download here the map
Useful info
Starting point
Macugnaga, Staffa
Departure point of cableway
Monte Moro 2810 m
Ascent
1090 m
Climb duration
4 hrs
Best time of the year
December – April
Difficulty
AD+, crampons useful
Exposure
North – West – West
Maps
Kompass f. 88 Monte Rosa / CNS f. 284 Mischabel, f. 1349 Monte Moro /CET n. 3 / G4M n. 5
Access
From Gravellona Toce, follow the Ossola SS33 motorway until the exit for Piedimulera-Vogogna and follow signs for Valle Anzasca, passing through Piedimulera and arriving in Macugnaga, near the start of the Macugnaga-Monte Moro cableway in Staffa.