The route is not particularly difficult and offers an outstanding view that compensates for the exertion of the long climb. There is some danger of avalanches in the section that passes below the faces of the Hübschhorn. The final ridge may present difficulties depending on snow conditions.
ASCENT:
From Simplon Hospice, climb the slopes that lead east towards the base of the north-west ridge of the Hübschhorn at an altitude of 2363 m, passing a distinctive boulder. From the base of the ridge, slightly descend and enter the valley that leads down to the Homattu glacier. Climb right back up again, heading south-east and always keeping a safe distance from the north-east face of the Hübschhorn, reaching the glacier and the classic “rocks”. Continue on open ground, heading towards the clearly visible Breithorn saddle at 3360 meters. Proceed east and descend to the Alpjer glacier, losing around 100 metres of altitude. Cross the vast plateau in the direction of Monte Leone’s southern ridge, reaching, after a short, steep slope, a small notch at around 3320 m. Leave your skis and follow the ridge, enjoying the beautiful climb up to the Monte Leone summit.
DESCENT: Same route.
Download here the map
Simplon Pass 2005 m
1648 m + 100 m
5 hrs 30 min – 6 hrs
April – June
AD, rope, ice axe, crampons
North – West – South – East
Kompass f. 89 Domodossola / CNS f. 274 Visp, f. 1289 Brig, f.1309 Simplon / CET n. 1 / G4M n. 9
From Gravellona Toce, follow the Ossola SS33 motorway until Varzo, then continue towards the Swiss border at Gondo until you reach the Simplon Pass.