Much of the climb takes place on the wide, large Basodino glacier in upper Formazza Valley, along a challenging, but very rewarding route. The section after Bocchetta del Kastel can present difficulties and when on the glacier you must watch out for crevices.
ASCENT:
1st day:
From Riale, the last hamlet of Formazza Valley accessible by car, take the road which ascends – with several hairpin bends – to the Maria Luisa refuge and then arrives at Passo San Giacomo and Valtoggia. After completing the steep initial section, you reach the plain of the Alpe Toggia and, circumventing a hill, you arrive at the Maria Luisa refuge.
2nd day:
From the refuge, return to the main road and go up the little valley that leads to Lago Kastel. Head east to the large gorge that descends from Bocchetta del Kastel. Ascend the steep lower slope on the left and as soon as possible, move to the centre and climb the steep upper slopes that lead to the pass at 2714 m. From the pass, slightly descend on the right with a traverse (stay alert for possible avalanches) and reach the glacier below the Kastelhorn. Cross the glacier (watch out for crevices), making a semicircle, and ascend a steep slope that takes you to the Basodino glacier. Climb up the wide stretch, circumventing a prominent rocky spur and head towards a small saddle on the east ridge.
When you arrive, leave your skis and climb the easy rocks to the trigonometric sign on the summit.
DESCENT:
Same route.
Download here the map
1st day: Riale 1728 m
2nd day: Maria Luisa refuge 2160 m
1st day 432 m
2nd day 1113 m
1st day 2 hrs
2nd day 4,5 hrs
March – June
D-, rope, ice axe, crampons
Varies
Kompass f. 89 Domodossola / CNS f. 265 Nufenenpass, f. 1271 Basodino / CET n. 1 / G4M n. 11
From Gravellona Toce, follow the Ossola SS33 motorway until the exit for the Antigorio and Formazza valleys, continue towards Crodo and Premia and take the Formazza Valley trunk road to Riale.