A symbolic hike in the Vigezzo Valley, it follows one of the most popular routes and mostly unfolds along the historic mule track to the Fontanalba Pass. Just before the Chapel of San Pantaleone, a few metres to the left of the mule track, there’s a large boulder lying with an empty space similar to a natural cave: the “vault” houses small hemispherical cavities, which according to tradition are related to the witches who populate Vigezzo legend.
From Santa Maria Maggiore you can reach the village of Toceno by car, then follow the road to Arvogno. Here there are two car parks and you can also continue on the paved road to the bridge over Melezzo, but there’s not always space to park at the side of the road. After crossing the bridge, continue along the dirt road or the old mule track to the right of the car park (M21). The two routes meet a little further upstream and continue on the level until you reach the bridge over the Rio Verzasco. After crossing the bridge, the mule track runs alongside the few alpine huts of the same name and then enters the woods and begins the ascent. You’re following one of the major cattle routes used in the past. The mountain dwellers of Toceno, Druogno and Crana used this mule track for centuries, taking their cattle herds to high altitude pastures in the summer. This is why this stunning, signposted (M21) mule track is still in such good condition.
After crossing a few steep streams, you’ll reach Alpe Villasco (1642 m – 5387 ft) with a ruined hut and a water fountain. After a few bends you reach the wide pastures of Alpe Motti. There are three large buildings still in good condition, with the building used as a cheese hut (casera) in a dominant position over the valley. The mule track passes next to the building upstream and climbs through pastures and rare larch trees; in the small plateau above it there’s a source of very fresh water. Going uphill you reach the chapel of San Pantaleone (1992 m – 6306 ft). The signs indicate a left turn and, slightly uphill on stony pastures, you’ll reach Panelatte Lake. This name perhaps derives from the habit mountain dwellers had of stopping and eating a short meal during long cattle treks (pane – bread, latte – milk). This is a small lake of glacial origin partly covered with cotton-grass located at the base of the slopes of Pizzo del Corno. The environment is wide open; to the north-east are the peaks of Pizzo di Campolatte (2306 m – 7566 ft) and Pizzo Medaro (2553 m – 8376 ft), the highest peak in the Vigezzo Valley. To the east, the wooded valley of the Bagni di Craveggia and, lower down, the Onsernone valley in Switzerland, towards Locarno. The descent is on the same route as the ascent.
Sector M “Itineraries” – M21
Contact details: Municipality of Toceno
CAI contact details: Vigezzo Valley Section
Refreshment areas: Refuges in Arvogno
Medium difficulty route, the majority of which is along mule tracks and footpaths.
4,5 km.
860 m.
3 hrs (time refers to just one way)
Walking boots and poles.
M21
From June to September
Map no. 12 scale 1:25,000 of the Geo4Map/CAI
Digital maps on the following apps: ViewRanger – Avenza Maps
Carta Escursionistica (Walking Map) scale 1:25.000 Vigezzo Valley/Cannobina Valle ed. Ex Comunità Montane