Balmalonesca, historic cliff in Ossola, can be reached by car, parking at the base of the cliffs. The location isn’t the most pleasant in terms of scenery, as it climbs up from the main road that leads to the Simplon Pass, but it offers a great, sustained climb.
In Balma you shouldn’t be disheartened if you’re not on fire the first few times, as the slabs are very smooth and technical, and the cracks are very physical and severe. There are also a number of routes created in the eighties, some of which are really great, despite the artificial holds.
The grades go from 6a to 8b+ and you can climb here from spring to autumn, if you’re careful to avoid the hotter days and the times of day when it’s most exposed to the sun. There are some options if it rains, but it’s a good idea to move over to the neighbouring Balma 2, an overhang that is great for rainy days, if somewhat spoilt by its popularity.
How to get there: a few kilometres outside of Varzo, in Divedro Valley, in the direction of Sempione. Parking is below the cliff.
Cover photo (which is not of the cliff itself) by Paolo Sartori photographer.